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2025 Toyko, Hakone, Kyoto Japan

March 24, 2025 by Erin Phillips

Arrival - day 0

  • super tired but was a cute walk from subway to hotel 

  • Bought delicious sweet potato pastry 

  • Got our fortune told at the shrine for 100 yen - if it’s good you keep it, if it’s bad you tie it up there and leave it 

  • After checking into hotel, napped til Negina got in

  • Ate dinner at revolving sushi (45m wait) everything was self serve - from getting number, to getting seated, to ordering and paying - we all full and paid $32 

  • 7/11 stop <3

  • Put on matching pjs and slept 

Day 1

  • cold and overcast

  • Breakfast at hotel, snacks from 7/11

  • Love there are drink vending machines everywhere with hot and cold drinks 

  • Suica card is so easy on iPhone wallet. Just fill it and scan phone 

  • Subway pretty easy to figure out 

  • Rode to Shibuya - walked thru the crossing. Saw famous dog statue (hachiko). Shopped at Uniqlo for Marshall to get better cold weather clothes. 

  • Walked through yoyogi park and saw entrance to temple 

  • Goal was b side label stickers and it was very small and cute on a really quaint shopping street (Harajuku, all things teenage culture.) Good vibes (cat street)

  • Trendy shoe store too crowded for Marshall's liking

  • Lunch at Gluten FreeTs kitchen - so tiny and cute. Very good. 

  • Rode to shinjuku and saw the 3D cat, Godzilla street and then met Chris and Jen for rooftop drinks (expensive)and a killer view on 45th story 

  • Finally, had to get back to asakusa for dinner reservation at Gonpachi - meat and veggie skewers 

  • Walk home was very cold with chunky, wet snowfall 

  • Negina bought her traditional vacation umbrella 

  • Wandered a mall looking for shoes for Marshall 

  • Noticed: restaurants have little baskets to put your belongings 

  • Steps: 22k / 9 miles 

Day 2 

  • Sunny!! 

  • Breakfast from 7-11/ Lawson (sold out of egg salad sammies at 7-11 so had to get one from Lawson; Negina had her first onigiri 

  • Went to don Quijote (multi level store of so many things) 

  • Saw long lines of dudes staring at their phones for what we thought was for a casino 

  • Walked down kitchen street (kappa bashi)

  • Headed to sumida city hoping to see capybaras

  • Got super lucky and was able to go to the capybara cafe! Most of the time require booking weeks in advance 

  • We needed to kill an hour so we walked around this part of town that was not touristy at all. Bought some delicious chicken from a mom and pop shop. 

  • After capybaras, Tourists told us about the onigiri shrine so we popped by there 

  • Took a stroll over the sumida river/sumida park 

  • Popped by Imado shrine with lots of maneki neko (bekoning cats) 

  • Next was lunch at tempura asakusa - which is gluten free tempura bowls that came with instructions. We had the place to ourselves - which was on the 2nd floor off a crazy busy street 

  • For dessert, had candied strawberries and ninja got foam art coffee 

  • Marshall tried on some platform sneakers 

  • Then we tried some bad strawberry themed alcohol (tequila and sake) 

  • And continued to walk around busy streets and shops 

  • Stopped for an interview from a couple girls practicing their English 

  • Saw a few cherry blossom trees blooming here and there 

  • Saw very phallic pink and blue chocolate covered bananas 

  • Popped into a wood block prints shop - owners were really sweet 

  • More vending machine stops and 7-11 pop ins

  • Ended the day with lovely views from the top of our hotel around 6pm 

  • We saw lots of dogs in strollers

  • 20k steps, 8.6 miles 

Day 3

  • weather is clear! 

  • check out. Finally got egg sando from 7-11 and was indeed delicious and better than Lawson’s 

  • Took a romance car train to Hakone - saw some nice views of mt Fuji 

  • Once in Hakone, we took the railway to a stop for a snack. We found an adorable cafe (Naraya Cafe) that served delicious pizza, roasted sweet potato, beer and included a hot spring foot soak! It was a highlight! 100/10 would recommend. 

  • Then we stopped at the open air museum which was just delightful. The weather was sunny and perfect. We just strolled around. Highlights: the stained glass spiral staircase building, the splooting man, weeping chia head, Rainbow diamonds, squishy rock stools, 

  • Time for lunch! Went to Gora brewery and this was my fav meal so far (potatoes, delicious salad, and 2 types of crudo) plus beer / yuzu drink 

  • Walked through Gora park but mostly all the plants were still in hibernation + moss garden was being protected for the winter - we took the cable car to the next stop. 

  • From there, took the ropeway (gondola) from Gora to black egg place. We rode over the active volcano and Sulfur smoke - then got out to go try the black eggs! They add 7 years to your life. Negina got chocolate eggs. Unclear how much time they add to life. 

  • After that, we went to the final ropeway stop to catch a quick bus to our Ryokan. 

  • Had about 20 mins before our traditional multi course dinner. Not much (or anything) was explained. Negina came down in traditional attire. At one point we had 30+ plates on the table. 

  • Had to kill some time between end of dinner and 9pm private onsen 

  • -~15k steps 6 miles 

Day 4 

  • Overcast / misty 

  • slept on traditional beds 

  • Had leisurely morning until 8:45 breakfast. It was again a full spread of little funny foods. Lots of gummies, a couple of soups, pickled items, fish 

  • Time to adventure back down the mountain to get to kyoto. 

  • In hindsight (Erin’s opinion) should have just gone down to the main station and walked around / shopped. However, we did close the Hakone loop by taking the pirate ship across lake Ashi 

  • The bus ride back to Odawara took forever so we had to scramble to get food (from Lawson’s) to take on the high speed train to Kyoto. The high speed trains coming through the station are wild! 

  • After a 2 hour ride, we checked into the Dormy Inn which I’m already in love with. We chose this franchise because I saw on Reddit that folks love it - and get it now. We have fun matching hotel clothes. There’s free ice cream at night and a free probiotic drink in the morning. You get free late night noodles. And there’s a public bath. 

  • After settling in and booking massages, we walked to the Gion area (45 minutes) which is a HUGE shopping area. We found the b label sticker store here. Then had to race all the way back for our 7pm dinner reservation. 

  • We had all the meats at this wagyu restaurant. 

  • Another pop in at Lawson for pampering items (face mask and leg masks) before heading back for massage / bath house. I was afraid the bath house would be chaotic with tourists but it’s not the case. I was the only white girl during my time in. It was a fun thing to experience! 

  • 18k steps, 7.5 miles (mostly all done in Kyoto lol) 

Day 5 - 24 hours in Kyoto 

  • overcast but warmer 

  • Started with free probiotic drink 

  • Negina had breakfast buffet 

  • Erin and mosho got 7-11 food (strawberries, onigiri, part boiled egg) 

  • Checked on, stored luggage, and bike tour guide picked us up 

  • We drove west then rode through the natural area, away from tourists! Each mountain has a gold and a shrine/temple, and each direction of Kyoto (NSEW) has a temple 

  • Stopped at the emperors mausoleum surrounded by bamboo and large cedar trees 

  • Saw a fruit and veg vending machine 

  • We had traditional matcha from a tea shop 

  • Stopped at a plum temple where the plum celebration occurred in March, and passed the cherry blossom temple where that celebration occurs in April 

  • We stopped at the golden temple - the grounds were really beautiful 

  • Then we RACED back so that we wouldn’t be late for our 1:00 lunch reservation at Kacto. Our guide was so worried about us being late. We made it at about 3 mins after. Food was lovely. Biked around 16 miles? 

  • The area the restaurant was in was btw the river and a canal. Super cute. We walked back to the hotel along the canal. Mosho really loved this area and wants to spend more time there if we return. 

  • Mosho also wants to eat more sushi next time

  • Picked up bags and began the adventure to Osaka airport (which is on an island) 

  • The line for Cebu to check bags was over an hour long (not convinced me needed to check them) and then getting through security and customs took like 3 minutes. 

  • We checked out a lounge but it was pretty terrible 

  • At dinner / snack at Onigiri Burger. Ninja had spam and egg, mosho had teriyaki chicken and I had tofu and egg. They were really yummy. 

  • Turns out the flight is a mega huge international plane

Some fav pics that Mosho & Ninja took:

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March 24, 2025 /Erin Phillips
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